Rail-Mower Work Session on June 2, 2012

Frank Glatzl came over this morning to get the rail-mower working again.  At our RPI work session on May 19, the belt broke only about a mile into mowing and we were unable to obtain another in Kingsland, leaving us high and dry as far as mowing.  The belt broke because it was riding up too high on the pulleys, causing it to be shaved progressively thinner until the tension snapped it.  Frank identified the ride problem as stemming from the tensioner bolt leaning over.  So he fabricated a triangular base and welded the same sort of bolt to it.  Then we mounted that to the mower deck to provide a solid platform for the tensioner bolt.  Here's some photos:

The triangular support looks like a manufactured part because Frank was able to use a "wire EDM" tool to create and cut the metal, as well as the holes.  Pretty sharp work.  Frank also fabricated a new blade driveshaft, since the middle one had been bent when the rail-mower hit an obstruction on a switch several work session ago.  That was another strain on the belt that is now fixed.  My contribution in all this was to clean up the underside and the top side of the deck, since I don't like dirt and grease on equipment.

Frank installed the triangular base and bolt and then installed the belt and tensioner assembly.  However, he was not impressed with the way the belt was continuing to get pushed out toward the edge of the pulley.  He tried several different approaches to dealing with the problem.  Finally, he removed the assembly and brought over the assembly from an identical deck I bought for the Bolens 1455 garden tractor with front-end loader.  He installed that and the belt did not have the same problem with getting pushed toward the edge.  Then he took a close look at the belt covers for the first time since we planned to put them on to keep debris off.  He realized there is a hole for the tension assembly bolt to go through the cover so the cover can be bolted to the assembly.  That would help hold the assembly in the correct relative position.  However, the triangular support provides a much more secure foundation so we will stay with that.

We did decide to cut off the curved edges of the belt covers since they made it impossible to take the covers off without completely removing the deck from the rail-mower, which we would not want to have to do out in the field.  Got out my Kawasaki angle grinder and began cutting the edges off but as we were getting close to finishing the first one, smoke began coming out of the grinder and it slowly came to a halt.  We had "smoked" the grinder.  We finished the cutting job with a hacksaw.  So now I am in the market for a new angle grinder.  Plus Frank noted my trusty old electric drill has just about had it, which I knew in my heart but had not wanted to acknowledge.  Guess am in the market for one of those as well.

Here's some more photos of our efforts:

These show the tensioner assembly before Frank replaced it with the one off the other mower deck.  He identified the problem with this assembly as the orange metal bar on the bottom being too "weak."  So Frank is going to replace it with a wider bar of new metal.  He will also modify the assembly so the spring hooks onto that bottom bar instead of the top bar, since he thinks the tension at the higher level is causing part of the problem with the belts riding high using this assembly.  There isn't much of a problem at all with the other assembly so the deck should perform fine during the forthcoming June 30 RPI work session from Llano-Kingsland, at least we sure do hope so.

Frank will work on a few other tweaks as well.  He plans to grind off part of the old metal seat so we can mount it on the back of the rail-mower in case someone needs to sit there to adjust the mower operation.  He may also fab another blade driveshaft.  Plus he will be finishing up some mower lift arm supports to use with the rail-mower so we can return the ones we borrowed from the 1455 mower deck.  He also plans to re-mount the knob on the throttle cable so it can be tightened when necessary.

Here's two last shots to close out this post, showing Frank with rail-mower and deck, and the deck ready to be re-mounted onto the rail-mower:

RPI Rail-Mower Restored to Operational Status

As you will recall from my post to the RPI Work Session blog re the March 17 Llano work session, the rail-mower took it in the chin while being towed behind my CBI motorcar when I went over a frog.  Part of the deck was pushed inward, stopping a blade from moving, so that ended the rail-mower's work on the Llano Branch for the day, other than as a tool carrier.

Frank Glatzl came over today and we took the mower deck off.  We placed it upside down on some sawhorses to examine the patient.  Diagnosis:  deck needs to be straightened out; a jackshaft on one of the drive spindles needs to be replaced (but will work for now); one of the lift links was broken and needs to be repaired or replaced; and the inner belt guard needs to come off to provide a higher profile when passing over potentially problematic portions of rail.

First we took off the inner belt guard, then Frank wielded a 2-lb hammer against the deck edge (with a sledge hammer head behind the edge) to straighten it out.  We took off the spindle and shaft to straighten out the main deck surface as well.  We put the spindle back on but noticed that it was not turning as freely as the other two so Frank took a close look and determined the jack shaft is bent.  It will work for now but I found three on the internet for $ 22.60 each so probably will get them as backups for both the rail-mower and my Bolens 1455 garden tractor with the same model mower deck.

I also found two NOS lift links online, one for $ 199.99 and the other for $ 17.99.  Not a tough choice as to which to get.  Don't know whether it will have a threaded stud or not, my 1455 (from which we borrowed a lift link to work for now) does not have the threaded stud, which Frank says makes the link stronger.

While working on the mower deck, Frank also fixed the rail-mower choke, which had been moving outward due to the engine vibrations.  It now stays in place so that's one less problem.

One of our last jobs was for Frank to apply anti-seize to the mower driveshaft and then grease the zerks on both ends of the driveshaft.  Here's a shot of him finishing up the latter job:

We put the mower deck back on the rail-mower and Frank connected all the links up.  Then we took a time out while I looked for the key to start the engine to test the choke job and the deck.  The time out ended when I fished into a pocket and found the keys there after having searched the house, garage and my Explorer.  Here's a photo of Frank looking on as the mower deck test session ends successfully:

Frank is taking on some extra work.  He is going to fabricate a triangular reinforcing plate that will have a 3" x 3/8" bolt welded to the plate at the bolt's head to hold the tensioner assembly tighter than it is now.  The current bolt wobbles and allows the tensioner assembly to vibrate back and forth.  We think that is contributing to the ease with which the belt jumps off the pulleys while operating, although my taking a few bumps and crossings a little too fast is also contributing to the problem.

Frank is also going to bring some springs to tighten up the positioning of the deflector shield that is supposed to stay in position some six inches out from the end of the mower deck chute.

Finally, he is thinking about building a framework to hold the turntable in place on the side of the motorcar when we are carrying it.  I am also thinking about replacing the side mats with removable boxes that could hold more tools and supplies, but will wait on that until we see what we come up with for the turntable supports.  The same framework might also be able to hold various implements, such as shovels, picks, and other tools, if extended to 30 or 36 inches high on one end of the motorcar.  Whatever we come up with, it will take several months to develop.  

 The next work session at Llano is Saturday, April 21, to get the line ready for the April 28 Bluebonnet Run.  We will bring the rail-mower and try again.  And I will also grease the axles of both the rail-mower and CBI so they are both ready for some more rail-polishing.

RPI Work Session to be Held Saturday, March 17

Tomorrow is the March 17 work session starting at Llano and proceeding through Kingsland to the other end of our leased line at Scobey Spur, and return.  We probably will go all the way to Scobey Spur in the morning and turn around, then stop at Spyke's BBQ in Kingsland for lunch.  I've got both my Woodings CBI motorcar and the rail-mower saddled up on my 16-foot trailer.  I tested the CBI yesterday and found and fixed a fuel line problem.  Then I tested the rail-mower today and it seems to be working fine.  Fueled them up so we don't have any lack of fuel issues during the trip.

Yesterday I created an extension for the shield on the rail-mower discharge chute, so clippings, etc. can be blown away from the mower blades but yet any rocks that get chucked out would likely hit the rubber shield.  Here's a photo of the new addition to the rail-mower:

The extension uses stop nuts on both ends.  The idea is that if it hits anything, it will pivot and push the shield out of the way of whatever was hit.  I used 1/8" thick aluminum for the bracket and extension, so they should be strong enough to handle the bouncing around on the rails.

And here's a photo of the rail-mower as it currently looks (before I put the mats on later this evening, which will hold tools and equipment tomorrow).

Weather outlook looks good for tomorrow, chance of showers after noon about 10 percent, so don't think rain will be an issue, unlike the last work session.

No Work Session for Rail-Mower in February

Had to leave the rail-mower at home for the February 18 work session, unfortunately, due to forecasts of heavy and continued rain.  Full details on my work session blog.  Discovered during a pre-work session inspection of the engine that the choke knob is vibrating its way out, causing the engine to run richer than the optimum mixture when it has been leaned out.  According to Frank Glatzl, the way the choke cable was run seems to be causing the problem.  We will have to re-align the choke cable so it is a straight shot to the tab on the carburetor that it controls.  At least it sounds fixable.

Final Rail-mower Engine Tweaks Accomplished

Frank Glatzl brought back over the muffler that he repaired this morning.  He had to weld several holes at various bends but it is all fixed up.  We then proceeded to take the old starter-generator off the rail-mower.  To my chagrin, I found upon removing the replacement from its patently inadequate shipping box that one of the mounting brackets was broken, undoubtedly during shipment.  We decided to try to swap out that end of the replacement s-g with the one on the old s-g.  We were able to get the old s-g apart, but when we took the replacement s-g apart it was designed slightly differently.  Plus a mounting terminal stud was stripped, rendering it less than ideal.  The replacement s-g's internal parts didn't even look to be in as good condition as the original.  We couldn't get the stripped stud off so we decided to put the old s-g back together and back on the rail-mower since at least it would start the rail-mower.  The replacement s-g is probably going to the scrap heap unless there are some parts we want to hold onto.

To our great surprise, when Frank put his 12v circuit-tester on the newly reinstalled original starter-generator after starting up the engine, it showed the generator was generating 12v for the first time since we began testing it.  Evidently the act of taking it apart and putting it back together fixed some internal problem.  We therefore now we have a functioning starter-generator.  The Wisconsin S-12D engine,was purring nicely.  Frank hooked up the breather tube so everything is now the way it should be on the engine.  We did notice a screw on the starter that needs to be tightened so I will tighten it once the ground dries out.

Only other tweaks to be done are to take off the mower deck and install some additional washers under the pivot pulley.  The belt appears to be too high on the pulley, allowing it to jump off easily.  That's a fix we will work on probably before the March 17 work session.  For now I plan to bring the rail-mower to the February 18 work session at Llano.  We will run it down to Kingsland and hopefully cut a bunch of grass between the rails.  I may install a different cover on the discharge chute before then to test it out.  I also still have to sandblast the engine hood and install it so there's still work to be done but the hard part is over.

Redoing Rail-Mower Wiring

I got so pysched up from our Saturday work rail-mower work session, and Sunday was such a nice day to be outdoors, that I moved the rail-mower out into the sun along the track from the carport, brought tools and supplies next to it, and began the long-delayed task of cleaning up the tangle of wires from the engine to and between various other electrical components.  I was going to replace the wires with the right color wire, according to the electrical schematic, so I hauled the schematic out and began to trace the rail-mower wiring.  In the process of heavying up two wires from the voltage regulator to the starter-generator I found that they were apparently crossed.  That must have been a problem caused by a previous owner because neither Frank nor I had ever changed those wires around.  This struck me as a possible explanation for why Frank had noticed that the starter-generator was not generating current while the engine is running.  Frank is not so sure and gave me some directions about how to check the generator myself.  However, I'm the guy who blew out the bulb on his continuity tester trying to test a 12v circuit on the rail-mower.  So I'm going to take advantage of Frank's kind offer to bring the newly-welded muffler back this Saturday to let him do the definitive study.  If the generator part of the S-G is shot, I have another, used, starter-generator we can swap out and see if it works.

Be that as it may, I did shorten a number of wires so the rail-mower no longer looks like a tractor with bad hair.  Plus I took a lot of connections apart and cleaned up the terminals with steel wool and installed new nuts and bolts where possible.  I wanted to replace the nuts on the S-G post terminals but they had some weird thread.  Took an original to American Bolt Co. in Austin today and they said it was an "uncommon" 12-24 thread.  But at least I got some stainless steel nuts for the S-G so they won't rust anymore.  Also had to replace several terminals.  Couple of hours of work, and of course I had to go back and forth from the garage to the carport two dozen times. 

Photos from January 28 Rail-Mower Work Session

Here's some photos of Frank and the rail-mower's Wisconsin S-12D engine during our Jan. 28 work session, when we installed new rings on the piston along with a bunch of new gaskets:

Pay no attention to the dates imprinted on the photos--I had to use a camera that didn't have its date feature set right.

Don't know why the engine innards had a "AAA" in yellow paint on them, guess it must have meant something to somone at some point.

That's the engine exhaust pipe on the upper left, the starter-generator on upper right.

Rail-mower Engine Work Goes OK

Frank Glatzl came over today to take apart the rail-mower Wisconsin S-12D engine to change out the piston rings since it was emitting excessive blow-by from the crankcase vent during the Dec. 10 work session at Kingsland at which we first ran it for several hours.  The blow-by is caused by worn piston rings.  Blow-by is bad because the crankcase vent is supposed to be connected to the air filter.  If there is blow-by getting into the air filter it would foul the filter pretty quickly, allowing contaminants to enter and eventually ruin the engine.

It was about 50 degrees when we started but with a bit of a breeze, so we were glad to get the engine out in into a garage bay, where we could work without feeling cold.  I drained most of the engine oil and removed the gas tank and gas tank platform the previous day to speed up our work today.  Frank took the carburetor assembly off and opened up the main engine cover.  I cleaned out the remainder of the oil inside the engine with paper towels and cleaned up the outside engine cover with degreaser while Frank removed the piston.  The piston looked a lot newer than an original would have (this engine is about 42 years old), so perhaps a previous owner replaced it.  Fortunately, the shell bearing seemed to be in very good condition, so we did have to install the new one we had ready to go.  The cylinder had a bit of a lip on it which would call for reboring if the engine were going to be in daily service but for our limited service it does not need reboring yet.  There was a bit of wear on the inside of the cylinder but not too much.  Frank used a hone on my electric drill to clean up the cylinder so the new rings would seat properly.  He then installed the new rings on the piston, using a special tool to take them off and another to put the new rings on.

I used a scraper to remove gasket material from the edges of the cylinder head and the main engine cover.  We also cleaned the top of the piston and the underside of the cylinder head.  Frank re-installed the piston and then we began installing gaskets.  We put new ones on the main engine cover, the cylinder head, the choke mounting plate and (later) the points and condenser box.  Then we closed up the main engine cover and cylinder head.  Frank then opened up the timer box and removed the innards, along with the box itself, since one of the screw mounting holes was stripped.  I had the pieces of a different timer off another S-12D so Frank used the best pieces from both units, including the spare timer box, to rebuild the timer.  Plus I had bought new points and a new condenser set (part no. YQ-16--not easy to find) which he also installed.  He will take the original timer box home with him to tap out the stripped hole and make it a serviceable spare.

Once the timer was reassembled, Frank reinstalled the carburetor assembly.  We brought the engine out to the rail-mower frame and reinstalled it.  Then we hooked up all the various wires and tried to start it.  The engine failed to start, although it did turn over.  Frank took some fine sandpaper I had in my tool box and lightly sanded the points and then the engine started (the points must have had a bit of surface corrosion).  We ran it for a while and even turned on the mower deck.  There were no sign of blow-by from the piston rings, so our job was a success.  We did test the starter-generator, however, and it appears the generator part is kaput.  I have a spare starter-generator, so I plan to swap them out and test the new one to see if it will keep the battery charged so I don't have to use a battery charger prior to each rail-mower work session.  Frank took the muffler with him so he can weld several small holes or tears at the elbow.  We decided not to touch the nipple mounted to the engine that the muffler pipe hooks onto, since if it were to break off, we'd have to take the engine apart and probably buy a new "jug" (the body holding the cylinder).

I am going to replace the engine wiring, step by step, since it appears well worn and in some cases, insufficiently thick for the current it should carry.  Then I will switch starter-generators and see if the new one is good.

Frank took a look a my mower deck discharge cover and advised that he thinks the mowed material will not be ejected far enough from the deck and therefore interfere with the blade operation.  He was of the opinion that we ought to move the cover out about 6-8 inches.  I was concerned that something like that sticking out could hit something along the rail line and might therefore pose a hazard.  Frank suggested that we mount the shield with a single piece of metal that has a stopnut on the single bolt that holds it to the deck.  That way the assembly would pivot backward if it struck anyway, much like modern side mirrors do.  So that is also I my to-do list.  Another item on that list is taking off the mower deck and inserting some washers under the pivot point bolt so the belt is centered on the tensioner pulleys.  But I will need some help from Derek Scott, the local fellow who helps me with the Bolens mower decks, to accomplish that.  Will also need to buy some 10-24 stainless steel nuts to use on various terminals, so they don't rust like the ones currently on them.

All in all, we put in about six hours of work each on this job, but the engine is now in much better shape and should last quite a few years before it needs more work, assuming we keep it out of the rain and sun.  We very glad there weren't any hidden troubles inside the engine that would have required much more work, so I guess we will count ourselves lucky.

I will bring the rail-mower to the next Llano work session on February 18, but Frank won't be able to make that session, so will be running it by myself.  Will probably have to run up to Cedar Park to pick up the muffler once he gets it fixed.

I took some photos of us at work and of the engine with the main cover off, but can't upload them until I find a SIM card to fit the camera I used.  I will post them later, probably this afternoon.

Received Parts, Jan. 28 Work Session on Track

I have received both the piston rings and shell bearing for the Wisconsin S-12D engine in the rail-mower, so we are set for the Jan. 28 work session to install them and a new set of points and condenser.

Next Work Session Rescheduled

Frank Glatzl and I have rescheduled our next work session on the rail-mower for Saturday, January 28.  I was notified by the supplier I ordered the Wisconsin piston rings that they did not have them in stock and would have to order them from the factory.  I checked with Wisconsin Motors LLC and they confirmed they did have three sets in stock, so I decided to let the order go forward.  Meanwhile Frank had alerted me that he would have to move back the date anyway due to his work schedule so I guess the postponement was meant to be.
And also meanwhile, another supplier notified me that he did not have the HA-129S shell bearing for the S-12D.  He cancelled the order and refunded the money.  I found another supplier and ordered it, so am hopeful it will get in soon after all.  Not too many parts left for these old engines.  I sure am glad I got so much work done last weekend--by now cedar pollen has arrived and I am suffering greatly whenever I go outdoors, so I would have been in real trouble if I had had to work on the rail-mower this weekend.

Photos of Recent Rail-Mower Improvements

Here's some photos of the work I have done on the rail-mower or on rail-related projects over the last several days:

This first one is a photo of the deflector safety shield I added to the discharge chute, in case the blades throw out a rock.  The shield is bolted to a piece of angle iron that is attached by clevis pins to the top of the chute.

Here's one of the rail-mower with the right side mat installed.  Note the standoffs at the top (3) that are holding the mat in place.  It is curved as it descends toward the side of the rail-mower.  The mat can now be taken off or re-installed relatively quickly, particularly since the stubs on the underside of the lengthwise frame member are holding the plywood floor up so the mat can be slid into the frame member easily.

This photo shows the left side mat along with the holder for the end of the muffler.  The holder is a piece of curved metal that goes upward from a bolt on the frame.  Then a piece of conveyor belting bolts to the holder and to a bracket on the end of the muffler.

Here's a photo of the rail-mower from the left side, showing the installed mat as well as the safety skirting and the muffler.  About all that is needed to go on now is the hood, once I have sandblasted, primed and painted it.

And finally, here are the C-channel ramps after being wirewheeled, cleaned and spray-painted.  Will turn them over and do the other side soon.  All in all, a very productive warm period for rail-mower and motorcar work before the really cold winter weather arrives.