Frank Glatzl brought over the aluminum cross members and carburetor today and we began to try to get the engine to work. We had to bypass the fuel pump since it didn't seem to be working (found out later some parts inside it were frozen and had to be freed--it also needs a new diaphragm, probably will have to get a rebuild kit). Frank also had to bypass the solenoid since it didn't seem to be working (that turned out to be a rusty grounding surface, but we picked up a new solenoid and installed it so I now have a spare). But he did find we had spark and the engine ran briefly when he primed it with gas. We loaded up a fuel hose with gas and held it up to provide a constant supply while starting the engine.
That very brief run resulted in a lot of dirt being thrown out from underneath the flywheel air shrouding, which meant we needed to take the shrouding off and clean things out. We could tell from moving the starter/generator that mud daubers had been at work underneath it, and it turned out they had nested between the engine and the shrouding as well.
After lunch, we went over to Tractor Supply and got the solenoid, a new starting belt, and a gear puller as well as more gas. To take off the shrouding, we used the gear puller to pull the drive sheave off the main shaft. First we used a 5/32 hex key mounted on a 3/8" drive to remove the two setscrews. Then we heated the sheave up with a small torch, mounted the gear puller and began rotating it with a breaker bar. There was a sudden "pop" and off it came.
We loosened up the dirt with a screwdriver and brought an air compressor hose over and blew it out. Plus we cleaned the shield with degreaser. We installed the new starter/generator belt (after I took the first one back to TSC and got a shorter one) and tightened it using the adjustment screw. The belt that came off was too short to use the screw and a wooden wedge had held the starter in place.
After putting everything back, we gave the engine another try and it start and ran well at that point. Carb needs some adjustment but that should be doable. No smoking or coughing, so that's a good sign the engine's OK.
Now that we know the engine will work, I can invest in buying the remaining parts to get the tractor in good operating condition. Will need the following:
1) a PTO control rod to replace a makeshift one I fabricated for temporary use;
2) two choke cables to adapt as a throttle cable and choke cable;
3) a fuel pump rebuild kit or fuel pump;
4) three new PTO belts;
5) a special cotter pin for connecting the PTO takeoff shaft to the mower shaft;
6) a new sediment bowl underneath the fuel tank;
7) four engine mounts; and
8) a strap to hold the tractor battery down.
I already have an NOS air cleaner assembly with breather tube, so that will go on to protect the carb.
Once I have the parts ready, will check back with Frank to schedule another session (this one lasted seven hours).
I am also in the process of rebuilding the mower deck for my Bolens 1455 garden tractor. The 1455 has a front end loader and ten-ply tires. I plan to use it this year to mow the Llano wye. Its mower deck is identical to the deck for this Bolens 1250 tractor, so we can learn what to do with it from the 1455 deck rebuild. I have taken all the parts off the 1455's deck, cleaned them up, primed them and painted them. Am just waiting for my local guy to finish boring out the spindle housing bolts. Will be ordering bearings for both decks now (12 in total). And I will eventually have to work with either the local guy or Frank to take the 1250 deck apart, sandblast it, clean all the parts and get new ones as needed and put it back together. We are still a long way from finishing the rail-mower but at least now we know the engine runs and that is a huge step forward.
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