I took a piece of sheet metal off the Bolens 1250 engine today to check for mud-dauber nests and found a bit, probably from the infestation behind the engine shroud. The rest of the fins were in pretty good shape but I cleaned them out with a screwdriver just to be sure. Then I primed and painted the sheet metal and put it back on the engine. I also wirewheeled the top of the engine and spray-painted it with a special paint that resists up to 500 degrees.
I took some nuts off the starter-generator leads and was going to replace them since they were rusty. Began looking for matching new nuts and didn't find any at home. So I went out and bought no. 10, 8 and 6 nuts and figured one of them would be right--but none were. Apparently the nuts fits a bolt that falls between the no. 10 and 1/4 in the U.S. system. Looks like a size 6 metric. So I conceded defeat and cleaned up the terminal posts as well as the original nuts and put them back on.
Frank Glatzl is coming back over tomorrow for another work session so we should have more to report soon.
Also my small-engine guy is coming over Monday night to replace two blades and mount the new electric PTO clutch on my Sears Craftsman lawn tractor.
F&6^%5 birds ruined one of the rear headlights on my Woodings CBI by ripping one of the wires out of it. Also ripped up four other electrical wires, probably using the insulation for a nest they were building on top of the battery. So I have to order a new headlight and do some repair work on the rear lighting system.
Friday, September 23, 2011
Monday, September 19, 2011
Battery Day
Today, Monday, September 19, was "Battery Day" because I took the batteries off my trailer (powers the winch), Woodings CBI motorcar, Fairmont M19AA motorcar and Bolens 1455 tractor to clean, refill if needed and recharge. Plus I disconnected the ground cables, removed the hardware and polished it up for all of them to ensure a good ground. I also installed new spark plug-ignition coil wires on the M19AA, which I last ran in March but had a breakdown. I didn't expect it to run but I took out the starting crank and gave it more than a few turns and it finally revved up. Kept it going at varying speeds for about five minutes, which suggests that it is back in running condition. So that is good news.
I also decided to do some work on the rail-mower. I cleaned up and primed a backup mower gearbox. I also tried to take a driveshaft off the backup gearbox shaft since we are going to need that shaft for the gearbox already mounted on the rail-mower mower deck. Unfortunately the driveshaft adaptor appears frozen on the gearbox shaft, just as the adaptor on the Wisconsin S-12D shaft that Frank Glatzl and I had so much trouble with on Saturday. The gearpuller won't fit on the frozen adaptor so that can't be used. Perhaps heating it with my blowtorch would help but I still have to figure out how to get some pulling power on it. So this is going to be the next challenge. If push comes to shove, I suppose we could just install this older gearbox on the rail-mower deck, but that would mean taking off and re-installing the belt and tensioners and would be a major pain. A fellow who helped with the the rail-mower deck is coming over Wed. or Thurs. to install a new electric PTO clutch in my Sears Craftsman lawn tractor. I think I will ask him to help me out on this problem as well.
I also decided to do some work on the rail-mower. I cleaned up and primed a backup mower gearbox. I also tried to take a driveshaft off the backup gearbox shaft since we are going to need that shaft for the gearbox already mounted on the rail-mower mower deck. Unfortunately the driveshaft adaptor appears frozen on the gearbox shaft, just as the adaptor on the Wisconsin S-12D shaft that Frank Glatzl and I had so much trouble with on Saturday. The gearpuller won't fit on the frozen adaptor so that can't be used. Perhaps heating it with my blowtorch would help but I still have to figure out how to get some pulling power on it. So this is going to be the next challenge. If push comes to shove, I suppose we could just install this older gearbox on the rail-mower deck, but that would mean taking off and re-installing the belt and tensioners and would be a major pain. A fellow who helped with the the rail-mower deck is coming over Wed. or Thurs. to install a new electric PTO clutch in my Sears Craftsman lawn tractor. I think I will ask him to help me out on this problem as well.
Saturday, September 17, 2011
Progress and Surprises Amid Cooler Weather
Finally, the hot weather has broken. Today featured heavy clouds and cooler temperatures, probably peaking in the high eighties. Frank Glatzl came over to work on the rail-mower project with me and we put up the EZ-Up anyway since the sun did peek through occasionally, but it was mercifully cooler than anytime since our last session in June. We even had some rain while we went out for barbeque for lunch, so that kept it cool.
Frank installed the throttle and choke cables after I drilled some holes in a piece of copper to be used as a bracket supporting the choke cable. We were not sure what to do when we found that a clip to hold the throttle cable onto part of the engine was missing. But then I went to my junk metal container, spilled it onto the garage floor and there, in the middle of all the old, rusty bolts, etc. was the missing clip. So it has been restored to its rightful place. Frank also installed a used fuel pump I found on E-bay since the existing fuel pump was not working. First he took it apart to inspect it for problems, but it passed inspection and when we did turn the ignition key the engine fired up and kept running, so the fuel pump seems to work.
We then found the PTO safety interlock switch was not working so we had to take it off and bring it first to TSC and then to A-Line Auto Parts. We found a substitute also with a rubber boot (to prevent moisture from ruining the switch, considering the tractor engine likely will get rained on at some point). A-Line ordered it up from the warehouse. We dropped by A-Line after lunch at, appropriately enough, the Railroad Barbeque restaurant, to pick it up.
But we had bigger fish to fry by then. While waiting on the safety interlock switch, we fired up the engine without it and noticed that the engine was running way too fast. The governor did not seem to be working. Frank fiddled around with the control rod on the outside and found it was loose. Regretfully we realized we would have to disassemble everything, remove the engine and then open the engine cover to see what was going on with the governor inside.
We disconnected the engine and moved it up onto the motorcar trailer. At that point we decided it was time to remove the U-joint on the driveshaft coming off the engine since that U-joint would no longer be used and we wouldn't want it flying around with the shaft. Of course, the U-joint had no intention of going peacefully. Apparently it was rusted in place. After much hammering, spraying with penetrating lubricant, and heating with a blowtorch, we were able to dislodge the middle of it. We figured the best way to get the U-joint collar off was to use my angle grinder. I cut along the woodruff key slot, and managed to cut enough so Frank could pull the collar off with my gearpuller.
After that we drained the engine and removed the engine cover to investigate inside. Here's a photo:
This was actually a very interesting moment for me. Being the sheltered person that I am, I had never before seen the insides of an operating engine, not counting those in museums, displays, etc. So it was really neat to see the gears, the piston, and, of course, the governor gear. As it turned out, there are two little "ears" that push a spool-like object that links to the external control rod which governs the throttle. Those two ears were broken off and we found the remnants inside the engine case. With them broken, the governor couldn't work. Frank has since located a new governor for a Bolens 1250 on the internet and has purchased it. He looked at the rest of the engine interior and said it does not appear to have suffered any corrosion from water intrusion. He was glad we have a tapered bearing on it since that made it easier to get the engine cover off. Here's two photos of Frank working on the engine:
We had to drain the oil to taken the engine cover off. While we had the cover off, we cleaned the interior of the engine case with paper towels to get out sludgy contaminants. Hopefully that will help the engine continue running for a good long time. For now, however, that was about all we can do. We did clean off the surface that the engine gasket rests on. Then we replaced the engine cover and all the bolts to keep moisture out and moved the engine to a "tie" on my rail holding the Fairmont M19AA motorcar to remain there for now. As for the rest of the tractor, it looks sort of forlorn, having been torn apart:
But it's just another bump in the road on the way to a functional rail-mower. Frank will let me know when he is ready for our next session so we can keep going. We'll replace the governor, remount the engine and reconnect all the wires and other components. Then, if it works OK, we'll drop the hydraulic transmission and axle off the back and cut off the front wheels (of course, both while the frame is suspended from the hoist) and lift the frame up with the hoist. Then we will slide the motorcar trailer underneath and lower the tractor frame and engine onto the trailer. So that will be a pretty cool transition to its new operating position.
Frank took home a motorcar trailer towbar, along with the hydraulic lift hangers that adjust the mower deck up and down, so he can straighten both (he figures the towbar was smacked by something, causing it to bend into an S-curve). He is also going to fabricate a hold-down for a battery and a breather tube to run from the air cleaner to a vent in the engine cover. That's a lot on his plate and goes to show just how much this project owes to him.
Frank installed the throttle and choke cables after I drilled some holes in a piece of copper to be used as a bracket supporting the choke cable. We were not sure what to do when we found that a clip to hold the throttle cable onto part of the engine was missing. But then I went to my junk metal container, spilled it onto the garage floor and there, in the middle of all the old, rusty bolts, etc. was the missing clip. So it has been restored to its rightful place. Frank also installed a used fuel pump I found on E-bay since the existing fuel pump was not working. First he took it apart to inspect it for problems, but it passed inspection and when we did turn the ignition key the engine fired up and kept running, so the fuel pump seems to work.
We then found the PTO safety interlock switch was not working so we had to take it off and bring it first to TSC and then to A-Line Auto Parts. We found a substitute also with a rubber boot (to prevent moisture from ruining the switch, considering the tractor engine likely will get rained on at some point). A-Line ordered it up from the warehouse. We dropped by A-Line after lunch at, appropriately enough, the Railroad Barbeque restaurant, to pick it up.
But we had bigger fish to fry by then. While waiting on the safety interlock switch, we fired up the engine without it and noticed that the engine was running way too fast. The governor did not seem to be working. Frank fiddled around with the control rod on the outside and found it was loose. Regretfully we realized we would have to disassemble everything, remove the engine and then open the engine cover to see what was going on with the governor inside.
We disconnected the engine and moved it up onto the motorcar trailer. At that point we decided it was time to remove the U-joint on the driveshaft coming off the engine since that U-joint would no longer be used and we wouldn't want it flying around with the shaft. Of course, the U-joint had no intention of going peacefully. Apparently it was rusted in place. After much hammering, spraying with penetrating lubricant, and heating with a blowtorch, we were able to dislodge the middle of it. We figured the best way to get the U-joint collar off was to use my angle grinder. I cut along the woodruff key slot, and managed to cut enough so Frank could pull the collar off with my gearpuller.
After that we drained the engine and removed the engine cover to investigate inside. Here's a photo:
This was actually a very interesting moment for me. Being the sheltered person that I am, I had never before seen the insides of an operating engine, not counting those in museums, displays, etc. So it was really neat to see the gears, the piston, and, of course, the governor gear. As it turned out, there are two little "ears" that push a spool-like object that links to the external control rod which governs the throttle. Those two ears were broken off and we found the remnants inside the engine case. With them broken, the governor couldn't work. Frank has since located a new governor for a Bolens 1250 on the internet and has purchased it. He looked at the rest of the engine interior and said it does not appear to have suffered any corrosion from water intrusion. He was glad we have a tapered bearing on it since that made it easier to get the engine cover off. Here's two photos of Frank working on the engine:
We had to drain the oil to taken the engine cover off. While we had the cover off, we cleaned the interior of the engine case with paper towels to get out sludgy contaminants. Hopefully that will help the engine continue running for a good long time. For now, however, that was about all we can do. We did clean off the surface that the engine gasket rests on. Then we replaced the engine cover and all the bolts to keep moisture out and moved the engine to a "tie" on my rail holding the Fairmont M19AA motorcar to remain there for now. As for the rest of the tractor, it looks sort of forlorn, having been torn apart:
But it's just another bump in the road on the way to a functional rail-mower. Frank will let me know when he is ready for our next session so we can keep going. We'll replace the governor, remount the engine and reconnect all the wires and other components. Then, if it works OK, we'll drop the hydraulic transmission and axle off the back and cut off the front wheels (of course, both while the frame is suspended from the hoist) and lift the frame up with the hoist. Then we will slide the motorcar trailer underneath and lower the tractor frame and engine onto the trailer. So that will be a pretty cool transition to its new operating position.
Frank took home a motorcar trailer towbar, along with the hydraulic lift hangers that adjust the mower deck up and down, so he can straighten both (he figures the towbar was smacked by something, causing it to bend into an S-curve). He is also going to fabricate a hold-down for a battery and a breather tube to run from the air cleaner to a vent in the engine cover. That's a lot on his plate and goes to show just how much this project owes to him.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Work on Rail-Mower Mower Deck
Today I took the cap off the gearbox on the Bolens 18048 mower deck that will be used with the rail-mower and I poured in 11 oz. of Hypoid 85W90 gear oil, GL-4 spec, per the 18048 manual, which calls for 11 oz. of SAE 90 oil. In the afternoon I removed the height adjustment mechanism since it will not be needed in the deck's new function and would be an obstruction to getting the deck underneath the motorcar trailer. I removed the rear roller for the same reason. They will serve as spares for the other 18048 mower deck I will be using with the Bolens 1455 garden tractor. I also have two additional mower gearboxes for these decks, so if I blow up any of them I will have an immediate replacement.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Rail-Mower Preparation
Today I decided to get the motorcar trailer ready to receive the Bolens 1250 tractor body we are going to mount on it to serve as a rail-mower. I spent an hour or so penciling in the outline of where on the trailer floor I will need to cut to create access for the tractor body and then another hour and a half drilling and cutting. I ended up with the following:
I still have to enlarge the bottom portion of the cutout to accommodate the mower deck hangers, but otherwise it looks pretty good. I wanted to preserve as much as possible of the floor since we will be placing equipment and tools on it while operating the rail-mower.
Frank Glatzl will be coming over early Saturday morning, the 17th, around 8:00 am, so we can get as much done as possible before it gets really hot. But the forecast is for mid-90s, which is much better than the 100 degree plus temps we have suffered through all summer. I worked on this project up until noon or so, by which time it was hot enough to call it a day.
I still have to enlarge the bottom portion of the cutout to accommodate the mower deck hangers, but otherwise it looks pretty good. I wanted to preserve as much as possible of the floor since we will be placing equipment and tools on it while operating the rail-mower.
Frank Glatzl will be coming over early Saturday morning, the 17th, around 8:00 am, so we can get as much done as possible before it gets really hot. But the forecast is for mid-90s, which is much better than the 100 degree plus temps we have suffered through all summer. I worked on this project up until noon or so, by which time it was hot enough to call it a day.
Friday, September 2, 2011
Additional Work on Rail-Mower
Last Sunday morning I re-installed the PTO pulley guard. Was about to re-install the plate that supports the gas tank and battery when I noticed that it was getting rusty. On Monday morning I wirewheeled it and Tuesday morning I primed and painted it. Re-installed it on Wednesday morning. Now I can put the gas tank and battery back on. Small steps, but now that the heat is coming to an end I may be able to get a lot more done.
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Back to the Railmower Project
Haven't done much on the railmower project for the last month or so, as you can tell by the gap in posts, mainly because I've been doing motorcar exhibitions and volunteering with Capital Metro (see my RPI OL Activities blog at http://rpiolactivities.blogspot.com). Plus this continuing high heat sapped my enthusiasm for spending time outside. Two weeks ago, however, I did bolt the bumper back on after painting it orange to match the motorcar trailer.
That actually was tougher than it appears. I had to line the four bolts up with two tapped holes each and those bolts did not want to go in. Had to get a jack to try to hold the two different pieces of frame in just the right aspect for the bolt to go through the bumper and through each of them. Took about an hour, par for the course for me.
On Saturday, I decided to do a little bit each morning while it was still cool. So Saturday morning I got out my gearpuller and pulled the drive sheave off. It had been put on backwards (again, par for the course; if it's possible to do it a wrong way, I will find the wrong way and do it). Then this morning I remounted it, using a hammer and a block of wood. After getting it on, I hammered in the square key. Finally, I tightened the screws down (one tightens down onto the square key) to hold it in place. In the process of aligning the drive sheave with the PTO clutch, I had to use the gearpuller to pull it back out a little. Unfortunately I placed the gearpuller blades on the front ridge instead of all the way behind the back of the sheave. Of course, the ridge broke off, leaving an open area. Won't render it unusable, but chalk up another mistake to give me experience. Won't do that again. Here's what it now looks like:
I also fabricated a spacer to hold the PTO clutch in exactly the right alignment with the drive and engine sheaves and installed it.
My final job for the morning was to relocate the ignition coil. An acquaintance of mine advised me to get it away from the engine heat and vibration and suggested bolting it to the side of the tractor on the inside. I scoped that out and it looked doable so I drilled two holes and bolted the holder to the side. Then I slid the coil into the holder and used a small knurled screw to tighten against the coil. Seems pretty solid. All I need now is a longer wire between the coil and sparkplug (12 inches is not long enough in its new position). But I can pick that up at A-Line Auto Parts tomorrow.
Now I'm ready to re-install the battery and fuel tank, When that is done Frank Glatzl and I will be ready to install the new choke and throttle cables, the used fuel pump and finalize connections. Once the engine is up and running, then I will cut out the middle of the floor in the motorcar trailer. Then we will hoist the Bolens 1250 tractor, remove the transmission, install a pin to raise and lower the deck and then mount the tractor to the motorcar trailer. Lot's still to do.
That actually was tougher than it appears. I had to line the four bolts up with two tapped holes each and those bolts did not want to go in. Had to get a jack to try to hold the two different pieces of frame in just the right aspect for the bolt to go through the bumper and through each of them. Took about an hour, par for the course for me.
On Saturday, I decided to do a little bit each morning while it was still cool. So Saturday morning I got out my gearpuller and pulled the drive sheave off. It had been put on backwards (again, par for the course; if it's possible to do it a wrong way, I will find the wrong way and do it). Then this morning I remounted it, using a hammer and a block of wood. After getting it on, I hammered in the square key. Finally, I tightened the screws down (one tightens down onto the square key) to hold it in place. In the process of aligning the drive sheave with the PTO clutch, I had to use the gearpuller to pull it back out a little. Unfortunately I placed the gearpuller blades on the front ridge instead of all the way behind the back of the sheave. Of course, the ridge broke off, leaving an open area. Won't render it unusable, but chalk up another mistake to give me experience. Won't do that again. Here's what it now looks like:
I also fabricated a spacer to hold the PTO clutch in exactly the right alignment with the drive and engine sheaves and installed it.
My final job for the morning was to relocate the ignition coil. An acquaintance of mine advised me to get it away from the engine heat and vibration and suggested bolting it to the side of the tractor on the inside. I scoped that out and it looked doable so I drilled two holes and bolted the holder to the side. Then I slid the coil into the holder and used a small knurled screw to tighten against the coil. Seems pretty solid. All I need now is a longer wire between the coil and sparkplug (12 inches is not long enough in its new position). But I can pick that up at A-Line Auto Parts tomorrow.
Now I'm ready to re-install the battery and fuel tank, When that is done Frank Glatzl and I will be ready to install the new choke and throttle cables, the used fuel pump and finalize connections. Once the engine is up and running, then I will cut out the middle of the floor in the motorcar trailer. Then we will hoist the Bolens 1250 tractor, remove the transmission, install a pin to raise and lower the deck and then mount the tractor to the motorcar trailer. Lot's still to do.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)